world peace

In the last few days, the Pope visits Turkey and prays in the Muslim Mosque Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, alongside the Mufti and the Imam. Does this mean a reform for Catholicism? Something must be done with their current structure, particularly in regards to the morals of the priests (sex offenders, homosexuals) and soforth. But seriously, the greater concern here is for World Peace... with RELIGION at the core. Woe to you [Citizens of the World] who discard religion and spirituality as ways of life... wake up and watch the NEWS. Im referring to you who say "God is not real" and find no place for Him in your lives, or in your "modern" and "progressive" society as a whole. Heloooooo... take Him out of the schools, but you can't take him out of the International News.

Tomorrow: Brace yourselves for A HUGE UPRISING IN BEIRUIT. Hassan Nasrallah's Hezbollah rally... some predict an attempted COUP? Seriously, would they even need one, since several members of the Lebanese government (those who are anti-Hezbollah) have recently resigned? Check your local listings, and say goodbye to Lebanon – as if you hadn't already.

Stack that on top of the likelihood that the third Arab Intifada (revolt) will begin within 10 months... some correlation to [insert Middle East crisis here]. and on that note, Go Condi Go (Condoleeza Rice to Jericho for peace talks between Israel and Palestinians) -- a noble attempt, but you're not going to stop them from fighting, hun.

And these are the headlines... "as the world turns." btw stay tuned to this blog for an up-and-coming feature: ANTICHRIST WATCH (I know who it is). no, silly, Im not talking about Condi nor Nasrallah!

a pirate's life - aaargh!

This weekend has been a relaxing one. After my Sede Boquer Thanksgiving trip, I locked myself in my apartment and had a peaceful Shabbat (traditionally supposed to be a time of rest). Unlike practicing Jews however, I did use electricity... and of course took advantage of my pirated internet connection (which I have historically been known to do). Even without a TV (which I generally do not watch anyway) I am able to keep up with the news on my computer, thanks to podcasting and media streaming. Back home I was glued to talk radio, but here I have not found any English-speaking radio stations (there are a few with cheezy American music in the mix). For my radio fix, I found a wonderful local Arab music channel playing all the Arabic hits, 99.2.

For my Arab-Israeli Conflict class, the professor suggested that I merge my background in Mass Communication and Media (1st MA) with some aspect of the conflict. Thus I am doing some research on the Al Jazeera network, its dissemination of information to Palestinians (and others) worldwide. They just recently started broadcasting in English, and claim "to seek out the areas neglected by the Western media." They've got a free video stream, whereas with CNN Pipeline you have to pay for the video. However CNN does have a few free video clips as well as the audio podcast (CNN News Update, American version), which I subscribe to, in addition to BBC's Breakfast Takeaway.

I rather enjoy (and prefer) the International newscasts over the US (and regional) ones I was stuck with back home (though Im sure I could get those too). I know there are a minority of US citizens who actually access the international feeds (BBC, etc), but challenge yourself to keep up with what is going on in the rest of the world, especially the Middle East. Honestly folks, America is just ONE of MANY countries. THINK GLOBAL.

thanksgiving peace

I had really been feeling homesick the last few days, as the holidays are upon us. I speak with my parents on the phone regularly (anyone else who wants my # email me and I'll send it to you), but its especially hard not being with loved ones during traditional celebrations, such as Thanksgiving. There are a handful of American students here however, and I imagined someone must be doing something to celebrate the 'exclusively' American holiday, so I asked around. My friend Marina was planning on heading down to Sede Boqer (about 40 minutes south of Beer Sheva in the Negev Desert) to spend Thanksgiving with another American student couple (from Ohio)... and she invited me to join her! Although nothing beats my MOM's cooking, we went to an amazing Thanksgiving potluck meal, hosted by the BGU student council, complete with a TURKEY and stuffing!

Sede Boqer is home to one of the BGU satellite campuses, and is the location of Ben Gurion's grave. The campus is fairly new -- in comparison to the BGU main campus where I attend, much smaller, but an incredibly tranquil desert setting with desert plants, mountains, trails, and a canyon (similar to the Grand Canyon). The desert breeze and quiet community brought me the peace I was seeking in recent days, and most importantly, the familiar feeling of home (I often compare Southern Israel to the Phoenix area)... to cure my homesickness as much as it could! For just 12 shekels, I can take the bus to Sede Boqer anytime I need a little desert peace.

I am now back in Beer Sheva, and intend to spend the remainder of the "holiday" weekend here at home studying and getting settled into my new apartment (complete with pirated internet connection). I can now watch many news broadcasts such as AlJazeera in English, from my laptop... sitting on my "patio" just like I used to do from my deck in San Diego. I even have a nice little view from here... not QUITE like I had in San Diego, but every little bit of familiarity helps when you're homesick.

learning languages

Many people (back in the US) have been asking me how my Hebrew and Arabic are coming along. When you consider I have only been studying these languages for about 2 months, and that I am learning them simultaneously, I think Im doing ok. While both are VERY different from English and each use a truly unique character set, there are more similarities between Hebrew and Arabic than between English and Hebrew, or English and Arabic (which makes it easier to study both simultaneously).

My Hebrew class is the "Alif" or beginner level. However I came into the class about a month later than the other students (who were here for the Ulpan) so I am really overwhelmed. My Arabic class is also beginner, but I started at the beginning, and have been learning at a more basic level (reinforcing what I learned in my Arabic class in San Diego before I left). Now we are learning basic vocabulary to complement the characters and sounds. Soon I hope to return to the shuk to make basic conversation with the Bedoins, or to the Old City of Jerusalem where everyone speaks Arabic. Hebrew on the other hand is ALL around me, and while about 70% of the people here speak some English, it is important for me to learn Hebrew for practical purposes while I am living here.

global groove

Last night I was invited to go Salsa dancing with a local dance instructor, who I met at the shuk (fruit and vegetable market). He is opening a dance studio where they will have Salsa, Hip Hop, and Belly Dance, and is interested in having me teach Samba there. While I really need to start making some money, this opportunity might have to wait until next semester, because I am incredibly busy with my studies right now (not to mention struggling with Hebrew). In the meantime I plan to check out the Salsa scene some night soon here in Beer Sheva.

The way I met this Salsa dancer is because he intervened as a "translator" between me and this Bedoin guy working at a vegetable stand, who was basically trying to ask me out. He wanted my phone number, and I attempted to communicate that I did not feel comfortable practicing my Arabic on the phone, but rather in person. Anyway, I didn't end up giving him my number (in accordance with my better judgement) though I intend to visit the shuk again to practice speaking with the locals. I enjoyed this area of town, where I was received with extreme popularity.

Beer Sheva, although mainly a "college town", is the heart of the Negev Desert, home to a large Bedoin (nomad settlers) population. These people are of Arab descent, though I'm trying to pinpoint their relationship to the Palestinians. I think they're "safe" in terms of not being a "threat" like the Arab people who are publicized (via news sources) as Anti-Israel (such as Palestinians in Gaza, a current media focus). Our close proximity to Gaza (where we have Quassam rockets being fired into nearby towns of Beit Hanun and Sderot) and Jerusalem (where we have border issues similar to the US/Mexico border) has kept me focused on the Arab-Israeli conflict and how it affects the region.

bed time

for the last 3 or 4 days I have been moving, from a 2 bedroom apartment with a roommate to my own 1 bedroom apartment about 2 blocks away. The new place required quite a bit of cleaning and upgrading, but nothing that a little shopping could not cure! I found the great shopping areas in town, and my new favorite store called ACE (like ACE hardware in the US but with "bed bath & beyond" type merchandise as well). The new apartment is fully furnished, but the bed left a little something to be desired -- it is sooo old, and very bad for one's back. So my friend Ariel from Capoeira helped me search the Hebrew classifieds to find a new mattress for me.

We answered 2 ads, one in the south part of Beer Sheva, and from there we walked about 2 miles to the second one, to a beautiful "new" part of town, with high-rise condos that look like the buildings in Jerusalem (made of limestone or "Jerusalem stone" as the locals call it). The guy's place had an amazing view of ALL of Beer Sheva and the horizon line. Anyway, the mattress he was "selling" was as old and beat up as my existing one, and I told him it wouldn't work for me; that I was looking for more of a thick "foam pad" type of bed (very common around here), as we were on our way out.

Just as I said that, he started to rant (in English which he claimed was rusty) about how he JUST bought a bed like that 5 days ago, and has NOT been able to sleep on it because it is too hard! Unfortunately he was unable to return it to the store without penalty (and having to jump through a bunch of hoops), and so he didn't know WHAT on earth he was going to do with it (he paid full price 600 shekels). We proceeded to his room to look at it, and I told him it was EXACTLY what i was looking for, but that I was only prepared to pay 300 shekels MAX including delivery (for a used one). He likened my situation to the story of Rachel and Leah from the Bible (where Jacob went there for one wife but got her sister instead). He wanted to help me AND needed to get rid of it, so he offered me the NEW mattress for 400 shekels, including delivery to my doorstep (4th floor) later that same night!

So I got a BRAND NEW bed, for my wonderful new apartment (not as cool as my house in SD but totally perfect for me), and I had a fabulous night's sleep! My landlord came and "fixed" everything yesterday, and I also discovered a wireless network somewhere "in the building". Things are finally coming together for me here in Israel, and God has truly blessed me by putting great people in my path.

ze baraka

From what Ive gathered, there are approximately 4 "nightclubs" (with DJ music, dancing, etc) here in Beer Sheva, along with numerous bars or pubs. Everyone who knows me knows that I am a dancer, and besides performing (which I am currently not doing here in Israel) I have always enjoyed going out dancing. It is a form of release for me (besides capoeira and going to the gym, both of which I am also involved with).

The most "popular" club among students is called Baraka. Ive been there twice before and I vowed to never go back because a) the music was totally lame (cheezy american music) and b) I don't want to make a habit of "going out" on a school night (the last time I went I slept through my Hebrew class the next morning). However, I have been meeting several promoters and people who work at Baraka, all of whom convinced me to give it another try... and enlightened me to the fact that there are 2 other "rooms" (other than the cheezy one I went in before) with different music. Last night I returned to Baraka, and the third time was a charm. There was a guest DJ from England, and my friend Alan and I danced to some really good trance and breakbeat, as well as house which took over the otherwise cheezy music room. It was a really great night of much-needed release. This morning I woke up refreshed for Hebrew class AND ready to give a presentation in my Orientalism class.

I was also refreshed yesterday as we had a full day of "San Diego weather". Misting/raining lightly throughout the day, with fog and humid air at night. This weekend I am staying in Beer Sheva, rather than going out of town as i usually do. not only do I need to catch up on my studies, but I am moving into my own apartment (for only $200 USD per month!) which should be an exciting endeavor. Thank you for your continued prayers and encouragement... I'm finally settling in here!

my eilat

this past weekend, I went on an organized group trip to Eilat, the southernmost "resort" city in Israel. I visited Eilat as a tourist this past summer as well (I'm sure most of you remember the pictures and blogs - still available via lisabirman.com) and it is one of my favorite places to chill out. Eilat is on the coast of the Red Sea, and borders Jordan and Egypt, which you can see easily from there, as well as Saudi Arabia, just beyond Jordan. The weather was nice and the Red Sea was beautiful as ever.

On our way to Eilat we embarked on a 6 hour "hike" through Mt. Schlomo and Adom mountains. I hike quite regularly in the mountains of Arizona, and as Israel has the same latitude as Arizona, the region bears many similarities. This was perhaps the most beautiful hike I had ever been on, and at times felt like I was in the Grand Canyon (another such beautiful rock formation). We had perfect weather, and although my Pumas got thrashed, it was an amazing "mountaintop" experience!

when i got back from Eilat, not only was I well rested, but I also heard the great news that the Gay Pride Parade scheduled to happen in Jerusalem had been "cancelled" to a degree. It was moved inside a small decentralized venue, as to avoid the very conflict it sought to create-- a blasphemous degradation on the Holy City. Thank you Christians, Jews, and Muslims for your prayers!!! May peace prevail in all of ISRAEL!

love and war

One reason i decided to move to Israel is because it is in the HEART of the middle east. I live in a somewhat lesser known city in Israel, called Be'er Sheva, located in the middle of the temperate Negev Desert. My conveniently close proximity to the more popular(maybe controversial) areas of the country lends to frequent travel (such as my every weekend trips to Jerusalem). This week I find myself surrounded by hot topics in the news and current events, between Jerusalem and the Gaza Strip.

Today (and for the past several days), many people have been brutally murdered in Gaza (about 10-15 miles or so from here). IDF attacks on the city of Beit Hanun and the killing of Palestinians have topped the headlines. There is a high terror alert, as rockets are now being fired into Southern Israel (close to Be'er Sheva) and have hit the coastal city of Ashkelon. However I am told that Qassam rockets can not reach Be'er Sheva from Gaza. Regardless, it is important to be aware of the Hamas/Hezbolla agenda and how it affects not only Israel but also the West.

If all signs point to WAR (which has been predicted within the next 10 months) as exemplified in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in Gaza (and suggested by various recent border wars and development of weaponry), others are singing "lets be united with LOVE". This weekend the Holy City of Jerusalem will be hosting a gay pride parade/festival. I decided a few weeks ago to stay as far away as possible from the scene, as i often veer away from such events when they are held in California (my home of 13 years). Whether or not you consider me a right-wing fundamentalist, such a display of open homosexuality in Jerusalem would be a blasphemous desecration to the city, as it is clearly an abomination to the Sacred Space that Jerusalem embodies. And while liberals claim that the parade is a good thing for the unification of the city (brings together people who might otherwise disagree on politics or religion), the reality is quite the opposite - MORE protest and disagreement than perhaps even a pro-Hezbollah rally.

To get as far away as possible, I'm headed south to Eilat this weekend to hike and swim in the Red Sea (my favorite place on Earth to swim)! Rhetorically, "all's fair in love and war". Realistically, one's own definition of love, and an awareness of the root causes of conflict (or war) are matters of the HEART.

arab bus or taxi?

In Jerusalem there are these Arab busses, that are cheaper than the Israeli busses (only 3.5 shekels) and run on Shabbat when the other ones don't. They are great fun and take you all over the city. Yesterday I opted for a taxi because I was going to a specific address to try to meet up with a friend. When I got in the cab I told the driver I only had 20 shekels and asked if he could take me there. He told me it would probably cost 35, but to get in anyway and he would take me,and use the meter. When we arrived at the destination, he told me 35 shekels. I told him I only had 20 (which was what I had when I got IN the cab). so I offered to give him the 20 shekels and get out down the street. he was not into that.

as I tried to get out of the cab, he yelled "NO"! and grabbed onto my bag, pulling it towards him. I was frightened. I told him that was all the money I had and I needed to meet my friend. He told me if I did not give him 35 shekels he would call the police. So I said the only way I could do that is with credit card (which he said he could not accept) or to go to the ATM. so he angrily agreed to take me to the ATM, and immediately raised my price to 90 shekels. I told him I wanted to go to the ATM we passed on a street with several coffee shops, and i strapped my bags around my body snugly. as soon as he pulled up to the ATM he said, "leave your bag in the car" and I was like "yeah right"... as I opened the door and got out of the cab. I could feel him tugging at my bag again. i slammed the door and did not look back, as I ran for my life down the street in the pouring rain!

I wasnt sure whether he would follow me so I ducked into an alley and through a garden, ending up at a dead end in someone's garden courtyard patio. there i found shelter from the rain, while I stood shaking and my heart was beating fast. I crowched down and waited for what seemed to be an hour, and tried to breathe normally. I decided to call the girl i was supposed to meet up with, but of course she was not home, and i spoke to her mother, explaining that I was lost and would not meet her. Just then an elderly woman opened the "back door" of her home, opening onto the courtyard I was in. I told her I was a student, from America, and that I was lost. she suggested I go back out to the main street. I thanked her for the shelter and told her I liked her garden. After a few more minutes in her backyard, i made my way to the nearest coffee shop, all the while on the lookout for the man in the taxi. Fortunately I did not see him again.

I should have stuck with the Arab bus. It's cheaper, and generally the people are more friendly. I did finally make it to my destination, several hours later.

jewish tradition

for years, people have asked me if I am Jewish. the truth is, i do not know my mother's family's heritage. I am one quarter German Jew on my father's side. by religion I am Christian. My visit to Jerusalem this weekend centered around Jewish Tradition, as I was invited to stay with a couple (a friend from grad school here in Israel) and join them for a traditional shabbat (the sabbath) celebration and dinner. Friday night we went to synagogue and had a traditional meal, during which i learned A LOT about the religion and its culture. I grew up with the Bible, so the Old Testament was nothing new, and was quite refreshing to hear in a different way (with the singing of prayers and scriptures in Hebrew).

Saturday after a jaunt to the Old City for my Arab fix, I found myself back at the Kotel (Wailing Wall) to pray and reflect. After i was done I sat down and began to write in my journal. the woman sitting next to me said "dont write". It is tradition that during Shabbat, practicing Jews can not write, use electricity, or phones (among other things). I told her "I am not Jewish". she was surprised, and insisted that I looked Jewish. I explained my story, but she was not sold on it. She (and her friends) thought I needed to find out more about my roots. I was invited to stay with her friend, who lived in the Jewish Quarter in a beautiful home with deck overlooking Jerusalem. We had a wonderful Shabbat dinner and I made some new friends. the following day I headed out early to the Kinesset (main synagogue) and visited some offices there to start the process of tracing my lineage.

photo galleries

I have definitely been taking a lot of pictures throughout my time here in Israel (aka Palestine), and will continue to post them and create new galleries as I continue my journey. You can view the galleries via the links on the right column of this blog (or via the links at the bottom if you are using an "older" browser such as MS IE).

My classes are going really well, i just finished my second week. ALL of the lectures and readings are very interesting and are inspiring me for potential research topics. Perhaps the most pertinent means of conducting research lies in the first-hand experience of the culture, thus i am returning to Jerusalem this weekend. I do intend to bring some of my "homework" particularly my Arabic book (Arabic is both my easiest and favorite class).

just the fax

yesterday it was like pulling teeth (in Hebrew of course) to find a place to send a fax, i went to 3 different places. my landlord finally did it for me. I am filing a claim with Alitalia about my lost (returned) suitcase and theft of video equipment. Pray that they get back to me, so far I've dropped of a letter at the airport, emailed it to them, sent the fax, and left a voicemail message.

The good news of the day is that I finally went to the GYM (I have an all-access pass), got to work out, and TAKE A SHOWER (Yessss)! also, I finally found capoeira! there was a kids' class in the basketball court. Tonight he has an adult class, somewhere near my house. the group is Abada Capoeira. there is also a Cordao de Ouro group here in town which i plan to check out next week!

the latest "survivor" episode... I tried to use my "washing machine" last night, which you have to jerry-rig and makes this ungodly loud squeaking noise. this morning when i woke up to take the laundry out, it was still totally soapy! so i spent about 2 hours this morning rinsing out each of the items in the sink, then wringing them out with a towel (thanks mom for sending the big beach towel) and hung out to dry. i used the washing machine with the intention of avoiding hand-washing everything... oh well, live and learn. Im thankful i have clean clothes (remember those jeans I wore for 6 days straight?)! :)